FEATURES • DESTINATIONS
Is Locavore NXT the Future
of Sustainable Dining?
Is Locavore NXT
the Future of Sustainable Dining?
Locavore has long established itself as a culinary landmark in the heart of Ubud. Known for its modern European-Indonesian fusion, the restaurant has widened its reach with Nusantara by Locavore, Locavore To Go, and recently Herbivore by Locavore, each offering a unique taste of the island's bounty. But it’s Locavore NXT that truly pushes boundaries—a hyper-local dining experience that’s as much about the journey as it is about the food.
Locavore NXT goes above and beyond your typical restaurant; it’s an immersive experience with exceptional dinner and overnight stay options. The concept was born out of the creative limitations of the original Locavore, which, despite its success, began to feel constrained by its space. Chefs and owners Ray Adriansyah and Eelke Plasmeijer saw an opportunity to expand both physically and creatively, finding a stunning location in Lodtunduh where NXT would take shape—a project five years in the making.
Updated September 2024 • Words & Photography by The Punch
Updated September 2024
Words & Photography by The Punch
"When you start with an
empty piece of land and a blank slate, you have the opportunity to come up with some great ideas."
"When you start with an empty piece
of land and a blank slate, you have the opportunity to come up with some great ideas."
Chef Ray, Locavore NXT
INNOVATIVE DINING: LOCAVORE NXT'S INTERACTIVE DESIGN
Locavore NXT’s dining room captures the essence of exploration and risk-taking. Designed by Ray and Eelke, it nurtures a dynamic environment that evolves with the guests and menus, reflecting the chefs’ inventive spirit. The layout encourages fluid transitions and intimate sharing experiences, enhancing the overall dining atmosphere.
With the addition of five new kitchens, Locavore NXT transforms its dining experience, featuring an open kitchen as the centerpiece. Guests interact directly with the cooking process, enriching their meals with a sense of involvement. Inspired by the layers of an upside-down rice field and enhanced by stunning sunset views, the design creates a communal space that connects the kitchen team and diners in both functionality and beauty.
EXPLORING FLAVORS: THE CREATIVE SPHERE OF LABX
In Ubud, the original lab for menu development faced constraints, pushing the team to relocate to a more spacious building nearby. This move ushered in the creation of an R&D kitchen, a place for true culinary innovation. Here, away from the relentless pace of daily service, the team dedicates creative hours to new menu concepts and refine their craft.
For NXT, the vision expanded to include a dedicated research space, intentionally separated from the main restaurant’s operations. While this space doesn’t form part of the regular guest experience, it becomes a showcase for chefs and food enthusiasts.
FROM PASSION TO PLACE: CHEF RAY'S MUSHROOM QUEST
Chef Ray has always had a passion for exploring the diverse world of mushrooms but in Indonesia, most varieties are imported. Shimeji and shiitake are commonly found in supermarkets but Chef and his team wanted more than these familiar options. “As chefs, we wanted to explore mushrooms like lion’s mane, reishi, and pink oysters,” he says. This vision inspired the creation of a mushroom chamber, a space where guests can witness the growth of these fungi and enjoy the meals created from them. As seasons unfold, Locavore NXT anticipates introducing more exotic varieties, fueling their excitement and innovation.
ELEVATING DINING WITH EXCLUSIVE LOCAL BREWS
For both chefs and their team, beverages are a key part of the dining experience. When Locavore opened, Chef Ray’s passion for local ingredients led to a shift from traditional wine pairings to adventurous cocktails featuring regional flavors. This change was driven by a desire to highlight the essence of local produce. At Locavore NXT, the focus is on indigenous ingredients, using local brews like Brem, Arak, and Tuak instead of imported spirits.
This approach aligns with their goal of presenting authentic Balinese experiences. The menu now offers two pairing options: one with alcohol and another with alcohol but both with 100% Balinese ingredients, enhancing the local flavor of each dish. Chef Eelke notes that local drinks provide flexibility, perfectly complementing their dishes, which may include spices challenging to pair with wine.
SEASONAL INSPIRATION: THE ROOFTOP FOOD FOREST
The ingenious rooftop serves as a dynamic calendar, revealing the rhythms of the seasons. A stroll up there unveils the emerging bounty–durian and rambutan ready for harvest. This guides the menu planning and harvests with nearby suppliers. The potential is tantalizing and there are plans for Locavore NXT to incorporate it into the guest experience, allowing visitors to enjoy and select fresh produce during their stay. “Frustration comes from the scarcity of essential ingredients, a challenge magnified when sourcing in limited quantities,” Chef Eelke says. Yet the rooftop food forest provides both practicality and inspiration, meeting daily needs.
Chef Ray speaks about how a walk to the roof garden to see a vibrant sea of marigolds struck inspiration to make them into vinegar or thinly slice them to adorn a dish. “This garden is a wellspring of creativity to showcase local ingredients to guests and connect them to Bali,” he says. It also fuels the chefs and team with constant inspiration to craft new culinary experiences.
“We were two young cooks and
now we get to live the dream. It’s okay to dream and to fail, and fail again. Hopefully, one day you feel better.”
Chefs Ray & Eelke, Locavore NXT
NXT LEVEL ON SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES
Sustainability has evolved significantly for the chefs and their team over time. Initially, Locavore focused on crafting beloved dishes and a vibrant culinary space, with local ingredients as just one aspect of their broader vision. As the restaurant expanded, space constraints hindered the full adoption of practices like composting and recycling.
With the design of NXT, they embraced the chance to enhance their sustainability efforts. They created dedicated areas for composting and recycling and prioritized staff well-being with a canteen offering nourishing food, comfortable lockers, and refreshing showers. This approach aims to inspire both their team and the community, demonstrating that despite financial and logistical challenges, a sustainable restaurant can drive positive change and leave a lasting impact.
Starting with a blank slate offers endless opportunities for sustainability. With a modest budget, Locavore NXT focuses on balancing water and energy use with waste reduction. They’ve installed solar panels to meet 25% of their energy needs, aiming for more if regulations allow. A closed-loop water system, featuring a worm-based treatment plant, is in progress to recycle water for irrigation and eliminate bottled water. The kitchen emphasizes utilizing every ingredient and educating the team on sustainability practices.
Chef Ray is committed to reducing waste, even planning to bring his trash to work to avoid mishandling. He believes that collective effort is crucial for making a genuine impact. Chef Eelke highlights the importance of action over talk, aiming to involve the community and local villagers in waste management and environmental care. By adapting successful practices from Bali, they strive to make a meaningful difference without reinventing the wheel.
BEYOND THE DINNER TABLE: NXT'S OVERNIGHT COMFORT
In the bustling days of the old Locavore, guests from Nusa Dua, Bukit, and even Jakarta made the journey to experience the dining, only to face a grueling drive home. Recognizing the inconvenience, the team behind NXT envisioned a new approach: offering guests the chance to fully immerse in their experience with an overnight stay.
Guests now arrive in the afternoon to find a cozy room nestled beside the property, embraced by swaying coconut palms and a flourishing forest. After enjoying a sumptuous dinner, they settle in for the night. The next morning, the culinary team prepares a fresh breakfast in the welcoming canteen, and guests are treated to an exclusive backstage tour of the facility. This thoughtful arrangement guarantees visitors a wholesome time in Ubud without the hassle of a long drive home, creating a complete experience.
A DELIGHTFUL FINALE: THE DESIGN STORE
The Design Store at Locavore NXT is inspired by the classic museum gift shop; an inviting space where every item tells a part of the Locavore story. Guests discover an array of carefully curated items—seasonings, kombucha, vinegar, and even uniforms, all capturing the spirit of the place. Capping off the NXT adventure, the Design Store offers a cozy haven where guests can find the ideal keepsake, adding a final touch of charm to their visit.
AN EVER-EVOLVING JOURNEY
In the journey of Locavore NXT, the aspiration to achieve financial success is just the tip of the iceberg. Chef Ray reflects on their mission with a clear focus: “This is merely the beginning. We are dedicated to sustainability and responsibility, highlighting Indonesian ingredients and igniting inspiration along the way.” The path ahead is long and the finish line distant, but the commitment is there.
Chef Eelke acknowledges their imperfections with a knowing smile: “We’re not perfect, and we recognize that, but we aim to do our best. Previously, we faced limitations of space, time, and resources. Now, equipped with this versatile building and its rooftop jungle, we have the opportunity to operate on a grander scale and fully embrace what Indonesia, especially Bali, offers.” Their goal is clear—to create a restaurant that is not only delightful and sustainable but also a guiding light of respect for everyone involved: the team, partners, and farmers. They envision their work as a powerful influence for inspiring future chefs to enter the industry with purpose and integrity. The journey is long, but their resolve to make a difference remains steadfast.
“We were two young cooks and now we get to live the dream. It’s okay to dream and to fail, and fail again. Hopefully, one day you feel better.”
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