FEATURES • DESTINATIONS
Epicurean Fusion:
Apéritif Restaurant’s
Blend of Local & Global
Gastronomy
January 2025
Words & Photography by The Punch
Apéritif Restaurant sits in the quiet corners of Ubud, offering a gateway to another era with an experience that goes beyond dining to immerse you in a voluptuous vision of the past. Echoing the glamour of the Roaring Twenties, Apéritif Restaurant invites guests to begin their evening with a pre-dinner drink, a moment of connection before the food journey begins. Nic Vanderbeeken, the Executive Chef, brings with him a tingling curiosity for gastronomy splashed with color, polished over years and continents, reaching through a dining experience that mixes the sophistication of European traditions with the uncanny flavors of Indonesia.
The dining venue is a celebration of Indonesian heritage, folded into each dish with care and creativity. The kitchen operates with an air of conscience, where nothing goes to waste. From the use of solar-powered induction stoves to the practice of making use of every part of an ingredient–whether through pickling, seasoning, or lacto-fermentation–Apéritif Restaurant’s commitment to zero waste is as much a part of the menu as the food itself. The restaurant’s dedication to minimizing its environmental impact is matched by showcasing the richness of local cuisine, and collaborating with global chefs while staying true to Indonesian roots.
Chef Nic’s passion is not just about food on the plate. For him, it’s about the connections made through the act of eating–compellingly uniting communities. The restaurant’s commitment is made in the kitchen and beyond, building relationships with local farmers and suppliers, encouraging sustainable practices, and honoring the flavors of the land.
INTEGRATING LOCAL TALENTS
When Nic first arrived in Bali, he was unfamiliar with Indonesian cuisine, so he set out to explore, tasting dishes at local warungs and accepting invitations from the staff to savor their home-cooked meals. Eager to interlace these newfound flavors into his cooking, he aimed to capture the essence of local cuisine within his creations. Often, he would ask the team to prepare traditional dishes like gulai, each person infusing the dish with the distinct flavors of their hometown. These flavors were then carefully adapted to suit a more European palate.
Working in tandem closely with the team proved to be invaluable; they became both teachers and sources of inspiration, guiding the chef through the rich landscape of Indonesian cuisine and influencing their culinary approach. Encouragement for creativity flowed freely, with the team invited to contribute their ideas–whether it be a special sauce or a unique garnish–to the menu. This spirit of collaboration not only enriches the dishes but also supports growth and improvement for everyone involved, creating a kitchen where tradition and innovation come together in harmony.
BLENDING INDONESIAN FLAVORS INTO THE MENU
Chef Nic draws inspiration from the diverse backgrounds of his team, including the restaurant’s influences in their French culinary roots. When crafting a curry, for instance, it’s never just about following a basic Madras recipe. Instead, the process becomes an exploration of Indonesian “bumbu” (spice blends), carefully adapting and balancing spices to create a harmonious dish. Everything is made from scratch, certifying that each flavor enhances the main ingredients without overwhelming them. The chef’s goal is to give diners a taste of Indonesia while still feeling a connection to the familiar, creating a dining experience that’s both adventurous and comforting.
SEASONAL SOURCING AND LOCAL SUPPORT
When Nic began his journey on the island a decade ago at CasCades Restaurant in the Viceroy Bali, he discovered Novio, a supplier offering microgreens–something new and exciting for the area. Novio soon started his farm, growing rare ingredients like parsnips and heirloom tomatoes.
From the start, Apéritif Restaurant partnered with Novio and other local farmers like Bali Island Organic, instilling strong relationships that have continued to this day. As organic farming grew in Bali, Apéritif Restaurant’s partnerships with local farmers deepened, with both sides collaborating closely to improve quality. Farmers regularly update the restaurant on new crops, and Apéritif Restaurant often buys entire harvests of exceptional produce to keep their menu fresh and locally sourced. This ongoing dialogue makes certain that every dish is made from the highest-quality, seasonal ingredients, reflecting a shared resolve to sustainability and excellence.
GLOBAL INFLUENCE AND STORYTELLING
Chef Nic has a deep love for traveling and exploring new culinary landscapes. During a food festival in Oaxaca, Mexico, in 2014, he was captivated by the unique flavors and the creative use of chilies. This experience opened his eyes to the fascinating ways global cuisines, while distinct, often share underlying connections. He noticed that despite regional differences, certain ingredients and techniques, like the use of chocolate in sauces, echoed the flavors found in Indonesian cuisine. Upon returning home, Chef Nic and his team would dive into these newfound flavors, comparing and analyzing them against what they knew, discovering intriguing parallels. For example, the use of coconut milk to the base of Mexican leche de tigre versus the vibrant lime and fish in South American ceviche illustrates how different cultures adapt similar ingredients. This understanding deepens the restaurant’s approach to food, allowing it to honor local cuisines while blending global influences.
This global perspective also enriches the collaborations at Apéritif Restaurant, which strives to introduce visiting chefs to authentic Indonesian experiences while learning from each other’s culinary traditions. Through these exchanges, the chef’s culinary vision continues to evolve, shaped by the diverse flavors and techniques discovered around the world.
ENERGY CONSERVATION STRATEGY
When Apéritif Restaurant was built, sustainability was rooted in its very foundation. Though not fully sustainable yet, every effort is made to minimize environmental impact. Solar panels capture the sun’s energy, while induction stoves, which only draw power when in use, help conserve electricity and keep the kitchen cooler, reducing the need for additional fans or air conditioning.
FROM SCRAPS TO FLAVORS
In the kitchen, waste is meticulously managed. Organic and non-organic materials are separated, with a conscious decision to avoid plastic bags, opting for recyclable alternatives instead. Striving for zero waste, the team pickles, ferments, and transforms food scraps into flavorful seasonings, ensuring that every part of the ingredient, from root to leaf, is used. This thoughtful approach infuses the restaurant’s operations with a sense of responsibility and care for the environment.
CULTURAL HERITAGE INTEGRATION IN DESIGN
Apéritif Restaurant distinguishes itself in Indonesia with a striking colonial-style design, where high ceilings and expansive windows allow for natural airflow, creating a dining experience that is both comfortable and elegant. This architectural choice pays homage to a bygone era when spices were the lifeblood of Indonesia’s trade history. At Apéritif Restaurant, this rich heritage is honored by the kitchen and the earthy essence of spices, blending the deep historical significance with the artistry of modern culinary expression.
REDEFINING RESPONSIBILITY
Apéritif Restaurant knows the need to further educate its suppliers on reducing plastic use. A few years back, they collaborated with local chefs in Ubud, encouraging farmers to transition from plastic to reusable bags. Despite providing these alternatives, many suppliers persisted in using plastic. The dining venue sees the need to take more decisive action–perhaps by returning plastic-wrapped deliveries–to drive the change they seek. Organic farms have already adopted the use of banana leaves and bamboo boxes, but Apéritif Restaurant’s vision is to expand these responsible practices across the island. This proactive approach is essential in their ongoing efforts to reduce plastic waste and promote a more sustainable future for Bali.
EXPLORE THE FULL STORY IN UNCOVERED BALI BOOK
Uncovered Bali is a collective project showcasing the sustainable journeys of carefully selected Bali businesses to a global audience. Each story highlights the unique impact these enterprises have on preserving Bali’s cultural and environmental heritage while driving positive change. Through this project, we aim to inspire global leaders, travelers, and communities to embrace more sustainable practices and appreciate the powerful role that local businesses play in shaping a better future.
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